It’s easy to take your frets for granted. When they’re doing their job, you don’t even notice them. You probably only become aware of them when something goes wrong—like a string buzz, a rough end, or a divot. When those things occur, you should probably consider a fret dress or mill. But the fact is, your frets won’t last forever, and sooner or later, you’ll need to replace them. Here is a checklist of things to consider when choosing a refret.
FRET SIZE AND SHAPE
Unless you have something to reference, this can be a hard decision. As I share my shop with a vintage guitar store, there are many samples for customers to try out before choosing. If possible, it’s always best to have a favorite guitar for reference, so bring one with you as an example. When comparing fret sizes, keep in mind that the shape changes as well as the size. Do you like tall and skinny frets? Wide and low frets? There’s no right answer—it’s whatever makes you play your best. Here is something else to keep in mind: You can use different sized or shaped frets for different parts of the neck. For example, some players like wide/tall frets, but those can feel crowded in the upper register where the frets are closer together. A possible solution is to go with skinnier frets past the twelfth position. One famous mandolinist actually favors frets that get incrementally narrower at every position up the neck.
FINGERBOARD RADIUS
A more curved radius, like on vintage Fender (between 7" and 9"), will not allow you to bend the strings as far as you may want at a lower action without buzzing. A flatter radius, which you’ll find on Gibson-style and more modern guitars (approximately 12" to 16"), will