Driving across the border into Canada late this summer, the CBC anchor on the radio announced that a glut of blueberries had pushed their prices down to historic lows. Having brought a fancy new juicer with me, I sensed an opportunity.

The juicer in the back of the car was a Hurom H-AI[1], a sort of Maserati of juice machines, with a powerful motor that gives it a near-unflappable ability to liquefy whatever you throw in the hopper.

The Hurom H-AI has a powerful motor that gives it a near-unflappable ability to liquefy whatever you throw in the hopper.

It is a very effective machine, but it had a lot of convincing to do if I was going to like it, as the damn thing costs $700—a number that created a hurdle I was worried I couldn't clear.

I dropped off my wife Elisabeth and the juicer at my mother-in-law's house and headed to the produce store, returning with a mammoth flat of blueberries and 50 loonies worth of other fruits and vegetables to throw in there.

A few years back, I reviewed one of the H-AI's predecessors, the Hurom HH Elite[2], and was curious to see what changes were in store. The major differences turned out to be the streamlining of the machine, and an extra hopper, this one a basket-like "self-feeding" number, allowing you to dump food in there en masse. I also wondered if the "AI" in its name stood for "artificial intelligence," but instead, a company rep told me that the letters have "no meaning."

As I unpacked these parts and accessories—13 to 15 of them, depending on how you count them—they spread out far enough to cover...

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